Eastern Way

When you arrive to Viana do Alentejo, you can’t miss the panoramic view of the 13th century fortress, where you can see the church of Nossa Senhora d’Aires, the place where one of the main Alentejo pilgrimages of the Alentejo is celebrated, during Feira D’Aires. The majestic main church is protected by the wall, with an imposing marble portal, and through which you can climb to the roof to see closely the bronze bell in the Misericórdia tower.

The Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora d’Aires is one of the most emblematic Baroque shrines of pilgrimage in Alentejo, and originated in the 15th century (from the miraculous appearance of an image of Our Lady inside a clay pot to a farmer in the region), but became famous in the Baroque period when, the plague spreading in Évora, the city inhabitants promised to Our Lady d’Aires they would build a grandiose edifice in case the plague came to an end.

From 1744, the ancient building was demolished and the majestic and scenic sanctuary that still exists today was built. The great influx of pilgrims and the free market granted by royal charter in 1751 contributed greatly to the sanctuary’s grandiosity. The works continued for the second half of the 18th century, and were only finished in 1804. The main façade is the most monumental part, with its central body widely decorated, flanked by two towers, already rococo style. We do not leave this village without taking a souvenir that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the “Arte Chocalheira”. Produced with love by the local master rattlesmen, the rattles still serve their purpose today, locating cattle in pastures, a kind of ancestral GPS.

We turn south onto the N258 and get to know the small town, its friendly inhabitants and its long history. We continue towards the sign that indicates Alvito.

Before setting off, we refueled and tasted the famous café com cheirinho, the regional brandy, at the Café Central in Vila Ruiva. We take this part of the Camino along national road 258-1 for another 4.7 km and cross the bridge over the Ribeira de Odivelas. After the bridge, we turn left onto the dirt road, where we pass under the bridge and continue for 1.3 km. Then, on the right, we take the dirt road until we reach Alvito. We continue along Rua do Espírito Santo, admiring the grandiose Alvito Castle, and along Rua das Fábricas we leave the town, through green fields and olive trees. We take the first right and follow the dirt track for 5.6 km.

We arrive in Água de Peixe on a tarmac road, where we find the Solar de Água de Peixe, a noble house with a chapel from the 15th century, in the Mudejar style. We continue along the road to the right, where the tarmac gives way to a dirt track, which after 5.1 km takes us to Viana do Alentejo, at the foot of the mountains. We follow the N257 and Rua da Amendoeira and arrive at this ancient town.