Eastern Way
Crato < > Alpalhão
Stage 17
This stage begins in the village of Crato, having the Mosteiro de Flor da Rosa as a reference, the most important Portuguese medieval church-fortress, designed to house the seat of the Order of the Hospital in the country, and to which a monastery and a palace were associated.
Alpalhão
Alpalhão is a small village in the municipality of Nisa, situated on the plain between the mountain range of São Mamede and the river Tejo, which integrated the domains of the Order of the Templars. It is known for the benefits of its thermal waters (a few kilometers away, in Termas da Fadagosa hot springs), the quality of its traditional cheese and for its craftworks.
The Bienal da Pedra (Stone Biennial) initiative also took advantage of the region’s blue granite to leave numerous sculptures scattered throughout the town, including an intriguing finger pointing to the sky, “Dedo de Deus” (God’s Finger), in the churchyard of the main church.
In this picturesque village, which encompasses an enviable heritage, we find the Capela do Calvário (Calvary Chapel). The 16th-century wayside cross evokes the funerary scopes, not only for presenting Christ crucified on one side, but also for the circular enclosure to which it is associated, recalling the layout of the Holy Sepulchre. The other side of the wayside cross shows St John the Evangelist supporting the Virgin. The whole also has a chapel that is implanted on a granite outcrop.
Monastery of Flor da Rosa
Founded by D. Dinis around 1300, Alpalhão Castle reflects the royal authority in an area traditionally dominated by military orders: that of the Hospital, to the south (Flor da Rosa), and that of the Temple, to the north (Nisa). The Knights Templar established a commendation in the village, which passed to the Order of Christ in the 14th century. The fortified complex received a great reform between 1492 and 1511, at the time of Commander Fernão da Silva. With signs of abandonment in the 18th century, the fortress was already badly ruined in 1874, and only a few traces remain today.
According to an inscription on the bell tower, the Igreja da Misericórdia church was built in 1511 and is located at the beginning of Rua da Carreira, the main artery for those who arrive at the village from the south side. The main chapel still preserves the original Manueline vaulting, with the Order of Christ cross at its closure. In the 18th century, the religious ensemble was aesthetically updated, including the sacristy washbasin, dating from 1759.
By its turn, the main church, dedicated to Our Lady of Grace, has medieval origins but its current appearance is the result of a reform carried out during the Baroque era. Inside, stands out the altar consecrated to Our Lady of Candles and the image of the patron saint on the main altar.
Castle of Alpalhão
Founded by D. Dinis around 1300, Alpalhão Castle reflects the royal authority in an area traditionally dominated by military orders: that of the Hospital, to the south (Flor da Rosa), and that of the Temple, to the north (Nisa). The Knights Templar established a commendation in the village, which passed to the Order of Christ in the 14th century. The fortified complex received a great reform between 1492 and 1511, at the time of Commander Fernão da Silva. With signs of abandonment in the 18th century, the fortress was already badly ruined in 1874, and only a few traces remain today.
and also…
Alpalhão Sausages Fair − March
Summer Festivities − August
Toy House
The Toy House, which gathers more than two hundred old toys made of wire, stone or rags and porcelain dolls, is located in the old jailhouse, in the building next to the Parish Council.
Each toy has a history and its own file that informs about the date and the person who offered it. It also relates and describes the children’s games in which it was used, thus providing not one, but many “travels” back to childhood.
Toy House
We leave Crato by road towards Flor da Rosa, but the history of the “Santo Condestável” (Constable Saint) curses us… Turning to a trail within walls, the Path opens in the wide main square of the village, passing the Main Church (with a replica of its sword on the frontispiece) and facing the imposing Mosteiro of Santa Maria de Flor da Rosa monastery, which is now converted into an excellent Pousada hotel. It is worth taking some time to discover the most important fortress-church in Portugal and enjoy a coffee on the comfortable terrace of the hotel’s garden, in case you haven’t spent the night there.
We continue the Path accompanied by an extensive bucolic and rural landscape, crossed at some point by a seasonal stream that is overpassed through a rustic pedestrian bridge of very old construction. From there to Vale do Peso the walk is quiet, where the fields alternate with woods of pine and eucalyptus. In this village, take the opportunity to rest, visit Casa do Peso and stock up, as you won’t have another opportunity until Alpalhão. After Fonte da Bica, the Path becomes more solitary, crossing the national road and the railway line as the only distinct references from the surrounding forests, until you find the Ribeira de Sôr stream, which marks the entrance to Nisa municipality. Not far from Alpalhão, we cool off at Fonte da Feteira, a fountain adorned with the scallop identifying the Path, which is confirmed just ahead with the first red sign indicating the GR 40 “Caminho português Interior de Santiago – Etapa de Nisa” (“Portuguese Inner Path of Santiago – Nisa Stage”).
Distance 19 km
Maximum altitude 349 m
Cumulative increase 238 m
Cumulative descent -183 m
Duration 4h45m
Difficulty (0-5) 3
We enter Alpalhão through Rua da Carreira (Carreira meaning path, from Santiago in this case), ending at Largo de Santiago. Here we find the Igreja do Espírito Santo church, also called da Misericórdia, whose interior has an image of the Apostle, which everything indicates to be that of “Santiago Peregrino do Manto” (St James Pilgrim of the Cloak).
From here we continue to the Igreja Matriz (Main Church) and at the end of our stage, through streets of typical Alentejo whitewashed houses , cheered by colorful bands that frame the windows and doors, in a rural or manorial style.
TIPS
Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, and a map.
SUPPORT
CTT Post Office
Nisa Taxi Rank
+351 245 412 186
PUBLIC ENTITIES
Alpalhão Parish Council
+351 245 742 154
HEALTH
Alpalhão Health Extension
(+351) 245 742 121
Pharmacy
POINTS OF INTEREST
São Pedro Chapel
São Sebastião Chapel
Alpalhão Wayside Cross
Calvário Chapel
Nossa Senhora do Bom Despacho Chapel
Nossa Senhora de Redonda Chapel
Main Church
House Museum
Feteira Fountain
Nova Fountain
Baixo Fountain
Clock Tower
Figueiró Stream
Sor Stream
Vereda da Sardinheira (Footpath)
USEFUL CONTACTS
Emergency: 112
Forest Fires: 117
Nisa Fire Department: +351 245 412 303
GNR − National Republican Guard: +351 245 742 225
CODE OF CONDUCT
Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don’t bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage.
