Central Way
Almodôvar < > Castro Verde
Stage 3
Castro Verde was originally a small village in the immense fields of Ourique, as this part of Baixo (Low) Alentejo was known in the 13th century. The strategic location on the regional road network led to its elevation as a municipality and as a commendation of the Order of Santiago.
It was also the destination of the transhumance from distant places, such as Serra da Estrela, and considerable herds living in the vast plain extending to the south of the village of Entradas would arrive seasonally to the region. In the 16th century, the Order of Santiago was the largest owner of the urban center, since the large barn where King D. Sebastião was lodged in 1573 was attached to the houses of this Order. Land of miners and agricultural and breeding workers, Castro Verde is the homeplace of the main group of cante alentejano, the Ganhões, formed in 1972 by former workers in the wheat plains.
We can feel the presence of the Order of Santiago in the royal basilica of Castro Verde. built in 1718, it replaced the local parish church and is a magnificent baroque monument from the time of D. João V. One of the most important azulejo (typical Portuguese tiles) collections of Alentejo is conserved in its interior, signed by the master P.M.P. from Lisbon and dated c. 1730. The nave panels were dedicated to the events of the Battle of Ourique (July 25, 1139).
And, although the exact location of this battle is unknown, a strongly rooted tradition situates it in São Pedro das Cabeças, southeast of Castro Verde. For D. Afonso Henriques’ victory over an army of five Moorish chiefs, the main military success that contributed to the independence of the kingdom of Portugal, the apparition of Christ to the future Portuguese monarch on the eve of the battle was essential. The episode is depicted in the ceiling of the basilica nave.
The six lateral compositions of the chancel portray episodes of Santiago’s life, finally concluding the relationship between the success of Ourique and the day the battle took place: July 25, 1139, St James’ day. Found in the village of Casével, this medieval head-reliquary was part of the treasure of the Byzantine princess Vataça de Lascaris, the handmaiden of Queen Isabel de Aragão and lady of Santiago do Cacém, where she also promoted important works. Probably of Aragonese manufacture, it was used for the cult until the end of the 17th century, when the reliquary was still transported to the fields of Casével, to bless the cattle concentrated in the immense pastures.
and also...
Castro Festivities − June
Castro Fair
It was instituted by Filipe II in 1620 and soon became one of the most important events of the social, economic and cultural life of the county of Castro Verde. The tradition here is still the same and the fair takes place every October, according to the popular saying “As sure as the Feira de Castro.”
From Praceta do Poço de Beja square, we leave Almodôvar through the Antiga Estrada de Ourique (Old Ourique Road). The asphalt doesn’t last long, giving way to the macadam at the intersection to access Monte Fernão Dias, which is worth a visit if there is time. We follow the Path for another 3 km and stay parallel to Corte Zorrinha, a small cluster of houses. But the stage is long, 30 km, a respectable distance that doesn’t augur well for an easy day. So, we’ll have to focus on reaching Castro Verde or, alternatively, decide since now to calmly enjoy the experiences offered by the Path and spend the night in the village of Rosário, at half distance. Mountains in ruins and others in activity arise in an extensive, rural landscape without any shade points, where cereal fields coexist with olive groves, scattered holm oak and cork oak forests, pastures, and even vineyards. The village of A-dos-Neves appears in the perfect time, either for a light rest or even to cool off on hotter days.
After 3.5 km, we arrive in Rosário, already in the municipality of Castro Verde. We follow Rua do Lavadouro, cross the N2 national road and, through the cemetery street, we head to Castro Verde on a track road. We flank the old manganese and iron mines of Ferragudo but, with the construction of a private house on the site, this important mining point goes unnoticed to those who aren’t aware of its existence.
Distance 30 km
Maximum altitude 303 m
Cumulative increase 476 m
Cumulative descent -519 m
Duration 8h30m
Difficulty (0-5) 4
We walk down the hill towards the railway line, which we pass through in an uneven tunnel. Always accompanied by sheep flocks, we arrive at Monte da Filipeja, where we should know about the possibility of meeting some shepherd dogs at large. We turn to the right, pass the lock gate and we keep on opening and closing wire gates that are essential to condition the herds’ movements and ensure the pastures rotation.
We cross the stream over a passageway in solid stone slabs and follow the olive grove to the rural road that will take us to one of the Castro Verde entrances. In between, on the left, we note an old property, the “Horta da Ordem” (Order’s Garden), which proudly displays the initial “S” of Santiago at the front gate. Through Rua do Cemitério, we turn to the right on the roundabout and walk up Rua dos Ciprestes. Then we follow Rua Dr. António Francisco Colaço, continuing to the left through Rua D. Afonso Henriques. The stage ends in front of the Igreja das Chagas do Salvador (Church of the Savior’s Wounds), next to which the Tourism Office is located.
TIPS
Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, and a map.
HEALTH
Castro Verde Health Center
+351 286 320 140
Pharmacy
PUBLIC ENTITIES
Castro Verde City Council
+351 286 320 700
Rosário Parish Council
SUPPORT
CTT
Táxis
Supermarket
Points of Interest
Misericórdia Church
Casével Main Church
Chagas do Salvador/Nossa Senhora dos Remédios Church
Nossa Senhora da Conceição Royal Basilica
São Pedro das Cabeças Hermitage
São Miguel Casével Hermitage
São Sebastião Hermitage
Obelisk in memory of the Battle of Ourique
USEFUL CONTACTS
Emergency: 112
Forest Fires: 117
Castro Verde Fire Department: +351 286 320 020
GNR − National Republican Guard: +351 286 320 080
CODE OF CONDUCT
Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don’t bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage.