Central Way
Santarém < > Golegã
Stage 18
José Saramago, after the journey that gave origin to the work Viagem a Portugal, said that “the end of one trip is just the beginning of another. It is necessary to see what has not been seen, to see again what has already been seen, to see in spring what was seen in summer, to see by day what was seen at night … We must return to the steps that were given, to repeat them, and to chart new ways”. He would speak in a figurative sense and it would seem to refer to the Ways of Santiago. There are no records that he has followed it but that, coincidentally, the Way crosses Azinhaga, the village where José Saramago was born in 1922.
Azinhaga
“In the midst of night peace, among the high branches of the tree, a star appeared to me, and then, slowly, it was hiding behind a leaf, and, while I was looking in another direction, like a river running silently through the sky concave, came the opalescent clarity of the Milky Way, the Way of Santiago, as we still called it in the village.”Signed by the sculptor Arnaldo Ferreira and dated 2009, the bronze statue of José Saramago evokes the figure of the only Portuguese writer to win the Nobel Prize for Literature (1998), who was born in Azinhaga and spent part of his youth there. In the central square of the village, José Saramago (1922-2010) is sitting on a bench, as if observing the life of the locality that unfolds under his watchful eye.The passage through Azinhaga can be enriched with the visit to the ruins of Capela de S. Sebastião. In 1570, raging the plague, the inhabitants of Azinhaga erected a chapel dedicated to São Sebastião, patron saint against that epidemic. Much modified in the 19th century, it is currently in ruins. The Capela de São José, dated from the 17th century, has the peculiarity of keeping its original bell, bearing the name of its promoter (Gaspar Serrão, 1634), possibly an important inhabitant of Azinhaga who lived in the palace fronting the temple, known today as Solar da Família Serrão de Faria. Also, the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, the main church of Azinhaga, is a place of obligatory visit. Documented since 1297, the church still preserves the medieval coverings of the apse. At the end of the 16th century, the temple was substantially transformed by the Order of Christ, who established a commendation here. The building has gained monumentality, as well as the elegant interior with thin arches in the naves and a coffered cover in the main chapel. Until the end of the 18th century, the church was enriched with artistic and devotional elements, of which the polychrome carved altarpieces stand out.

Chapel of São José – Azinhaga
Golegã
An obligatory point of passage for those who crossed the north of the Lezíria Ribatejana (Ribatejo marshland). An ancient tradition admits that the origin of Golegã was an hostel for travelers and pilgrims, served by the chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Albergaria. In the 17th century, the local Misericórdia heritage was built around a hostel that existed in the vicinity of St Joseph’s church. The Igreja Matriz da Golegã is one of the most important Manueline churches and seat of the Order of Christ local Commendation. Golegã’s main church was built after 1501, probably by the architect Boytac (Boitaca), the first author of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Lisbon. The current feature of the temple is the result of a profound restoration carried out in the 20th century, when gilded woodwork altarpieces were removed, which had enriched the church in baroque times, and azulejo panels from the Convento da Graça, in Santarém, were introduced.

House-Studio of José Relvas
This chalet was the residence, laboratory, and studio of photographer José Relvas, built between 1871 and 1875, and completely restored between 2002 and 2007. It is a singular house-museum that evokes the importance of the photographic work of its promoter, but also his eclectic postmedieval and “postmanueline” taste. On the second floor, the photography studio privileged the use of iron and glass, whose light was controlled by mechanical processes for window darkening.
Paul do Boquilobo Nature Reserve
Located in an inland wetland and dependent on the flows of the Tagus and Almonda rivers, this 817 ha protected area is dominated by species associated with wet environments. The vegetation includes willow and ash forests and various herbaceous plants: bunho, tabúa and reed. The diversity of fauna species is also remarkable. Of particular note are the fish, in particular the ruivaco and the boga-comum (two Lusitanian endemics), various species of amphibians, reptiles and mammals. However, the highlight in terms of fauna is the approximately 221 species of birds, the heron colony with the greatest diversity of species in national terms and a place of great importance for the wintering population of ducks, in particular the redshank. From the interpretation center there is a footpath that runs through a diverse landscape and is circular, with a maximum length of 6 kilometers. It is marked out on the ground and can be walked independently by groups of up to 10 people.
More information about the Paul do Boquilobo Nature Reserve can be found at: www.natural.pt
and also…
Expo Égua − May
Olé Golegã − September
National Horse Fair
Feira da Golegã was born in the middle of the 18th century, known until 1972 as Feira de S. Martinho, date from which it became the National Horse Fair. Here, all the breeders are introduced and the best-thoroughbred horses are sold to the whole world. Golegã has long become the Capital of the Horse. In November it presents, through rallies, raids, equestrian games and exhibitions, exemplars of one of the most beautiful animals in the world: the horse.
Before heading to the next stage of the Paths of Santiago, Golegã, we must convince ourselves to leave behind the beautiful panoramic balcony of the Portas do Sol, with the viewpoint integrated into the old walls of Santarém, facing the river Tejo and the vast fields of Ribatejo.
We proceed to the hidden Porta de Santiago gate, near the Igreja da Alcáçova church, and descend the slope towards the Tejo, along the Santiago sidewalk, with some degreeof difficulty. In the riverside neighbourhood of Ribeira de Santarém, where the railwaystation is located, we find the Igreja deSanta Iria church, which displays a wooden sculpture of a black Christ crucified but only nailed to the cross by one arm.
After crossing the small medieval bridgeof Alcorce, we meet again the fertile fieldsof Tejo’s marshlands, in a succession of extensive farms, ditches and streams thatlend a bucolic and muddy rural scenery to our progress along the Path.
It is an equally extensive and flat stage, like the previous one, with no difficulties worthy of note, that crosses the Vale de Figueira and Azinhaga villages. “Galega” (Galician) would be the name given to an existing “Venda”(Sale) in the place where the village was born,and the name Golegã resulted from “Vendada Galega” (Galician Sale). At that time, the site was highly frequented by travelers going from Santarém to the north, namely by theRoman road that connected Lisbon to Braga, through Tomar. Maybe that’s why the horse has assumed a central role, along with the wine and the bulls.
In November, the most important NationalHorse Fair in the country attracts thousands of visitors who come to toast to São Martinhowith chestnuts and “água-pé” (Piquette).
The stage ends next to the Main Church,adorned with a richly sculpted Manueline doorway, in front of which the old Estrada Real (Royal Road) between Lisbon and Porto used to pass. Behind it is the Tourism Office, where you can find out about the various options for your stay, which are expanded everyyear with new offers of hostels and other accommodation units specially prepared for pilgrims and travelers to Compostela.
If you feel like, don’t miss to visit the Photography Museum Casa José Relvas, witha studio unique in the world, from the very beginning of image capture, and the Cultural Center Equuspolis, where it’s all about horses.
Tips
Always carry water, supplies, sunscreen, a hat, waterproof, comfortable shoes, and a map.
Support
CTT Post Office
Bank/Cash Dispenser
Golegã Tourism Office
Táxis Golegã +351 249 976 459
Golegã Camping
Public Entities
Golegã City Council
+351 249 979 050
Azinhaga Parish Council
+351 249 957 140
Golegã Parish Council
+351 249 976 279
Pombalinho Parish Council
+351 249 459 401
Pombalinho Community Meeting House
+351 243 459 120
Azinhaga Holy House of Mercy
+351 249 957 129
Golegã Holy House of Mercy
+351 249 979 110
Health
Golegã Health Center
+351 249 979 180
Pharmacy
Points of Interest
São José Chapel
Azinhaga Main Church
Golegã Main Church− Nossa Senhora da Conceição
Pombalinho Main Church
Paul do Boquilobo Biosphere Reserve
Quinta da Cardiga
Carlos Relvas Studio-House
EquusPolis − Martins Correia Municipal Museum
José Saramago Foundation
Typewriter Municipal Museum
Rural Museum
Museological Nucleus of the Portuguese Centre for GeoHistory and Prehistory
USEFUL CONTACTS
Emergency: 112
Forest Fires: 117
Golegã Fire Department: +351 249 979 070
GNR − National Republican Guard: +351 249 979 030
CODE OF CONDUCT
Do not leave the marked and signaled route. Do not approach cliffs. Pay attention to the markings. Do not dispose of organic or inorganic waste during the trail, take a bag for this purpose. If you see garbage, collect it, help us to keep the Paths clean. Beware of livestock, don’t bother the animals. Leave Nature intact. Do not collect plants, animals or rocks. Avoid making noise. Respect private property, close gates and barriers. Don’t light fires and be careful with cigarettes. Do not vandalize the Paths signage.